36 Hours in Hilo

Hilo sits between the sea, the often snow-capped summit of Mauna Kea and the smoldering Kilauea volcano. Twice ravaged by tsunamis in the last century, this nostalgic harbor town boasts both black sand beaches and waterfalls. While Hawaii’s sunnier destinations have suffered from overcrowding and increasingly steep prices, Hilo remains rural at heart — low-key and affordable. Rain nourishes Hilo’s fruit and flower farms, and the fishing boats return daily, laden with snapper and aku. With access to such bounty, it’s no wonder local chefs have captured national recognition. A new speakeasy and wine bar have enlivened Hilo’s nightlife, and this year the East Hawai‘i Cultural Center hosts the Hawai‘i Triennial, a prestigious statewide contemporary art exhibit. Each spring, the world’s best hula dancers converge here to compete for the crown at the Merrie Monarch Festival. Equally thrilling: During Kilauea’s sporadic eruptions — it’s in a particularly active phase now — you can watch molten lava fill the caldera at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

See the original article at: Honolulu Star-Advertiser